A Stylist Explains How to Care for Coily Hair

You can always reevaluate your hair care routine. This curl type requires that you pay attention to how your hair is styled and protected. Geneva Fowler is a natural hair expert and a lead braid stylist at BEAUTYBEEZ in Los Angeles. She can help us care for our coily hair.

NOW, FIRST, WHAT IS COILY HAIR?

Without understanding the “codes” used in curly hair communities, we can’t explain curly hair. Coily gals belong to the 4A-4C category. Curls are 3A-3C, and waves are 2A-2C. For example, 4A hair has small spirals and S-shaped hair, while 4B hair has zigzag or Z-shaped patterns with sharper angles. 4C is also the most fragile and tightest of the group.

What makes coils different than curls and waves? They are the shortest curl type and they can stand out from the rest of the 3s and 2s. Because of their corkscrew shape, moisture cannot penetrate. This makes curly hair more susceptible to dryness and breakage than curly or wavy hair.

COILY HAIR CARE

Although coily hair is the most fragile and water-depleted, there are still ways to manage it. This just means that coils require extra attention and care. We have listed five ways to maintain coily hair so that you can feel confident in your locks.

1. FIND A WASH ROUTINE

You need to choose the best wash routine to achieve healthy, soft hair. Fowler explains that coils naturally have a dry, spongy texture. They can be coarse and wet or soft and fine. Here are some good practices to use with all coils.

You can add a pre-poo to the mix. She says that it is important to pre-poo your hair with a deep conditioner, oil, or pre-wash in order to make your washing process run smoothly. Mix hair oil and conditioner, then leave it on for between 20 and 30 minutes. Rinse off before you move on to the next step in your wash cycle. This helps soften hair, making it easier to detangle later. It also strengthens and nourishes the hair.

Shampoos and conditioners that contain hydrating ingredients should be used. Avoid products containing silicones, sulfates and mineral oils. These common ingredients can cause hair breakage, stop hair growth, and increase dryness. Fowler points out that alcohols such as propyl, propanol and isopropyl can cause damage to the coils.

Instead, try co-washing. Shampoo may not be the right solution for some people. A co-wash is a gentler way to clean the scalp, without stripping out natural oils.

Deep condition your hair at least once a month. Deep conditioning is a great way of restoring dry hair. You can either make your own conditioners or buy one from your local drugstore. To get started, search for ingredients such as coconut oil, honey, and cocoa butter. After shampooing, apply the deep conditioner. Leave it on for between 30 and an hour before you rinse.

It’s up to you how often you wash your hair. A typical person might wash their hair one to two times per week. It’s usually determined by how much product, sweat, or dust you have accumulated that will determine when it’s time for cleansing.

2. BUILD A STYLING REGIMEN

While a solid wash routine is important, a good styling routine can make or break your health. Moisture is vital, as we continue to stress (because it’s so important). Fowler shares that a moisturizing product is essential to maintain your hair’s moisture during wash days.

Always make sure that your hair is dry before styling. You can spray your hair with a spray bottle between products or whenever your hair feels dry. Dry hair retains more moisture and is easier for you to detangle. This helps avoid breakage and split ends.

The next step is to find a step by step guide for achieving the style you want. The LOC/LOG method is a combination of oil, cream and conditioner. This method seals moisture in for longer and creates softer, defined coils.

After shampooing your hair, apply a leave-in conditioner. Your leave-in conditioner should contain a lot of moisture, just like your regular shampoo and conditioner. Fowler recommends detangling your hair with your fingers or a wide-toothed brush when applying leave-in conditioner. To avoid tangles or snags, always start at the bottom and work your way up.

Hair oil protects and repairs your hair. Expert says that hair oils seal in moisture, which reduces moisture loss, reduces frizz, prevents dryness, and reduces moisture depletion. Apply oils such as grapeseed oil, jojoba, and argan oil to your ends. You can also mix a few drops with your styling butter or cream before you apply.

It is cream (or butter) that binds it all. Because shrinkage is real, cream helps reduce breakage and increases elasticity. Look for ingredients that are rich in fatty acid like shea butter and murumuru butter. You don’t want anything too heavy or greasy for your hair. You should start with a small amount to see how your coils respond before you add more.

Gel can be used in place of butter or styling cream if you need to hold your curls more securely. Gel is great for curling the ends and twirling, while cream can be useful for this.

After following the LOC/LOG process, air-drying your hair is an option. Hot tools can cause hair loss and more harm than good. If you do not want to use heat, then a diffuser with the lowest and most cool setting is best.

3. CONSIDER PROTECTIVE STYLES

It is easy to make a protective style. It protects your hair and encourages hair growth. It’s stylish and chic all year. There are many styles to choose from, including braids and twists. To try a style at your home, book a hair appointment. One common misconception is that protective styles like weaves or braids don’t require you to wash your hair. Fowler says that while braids and weaves can be a great way to manage your hair, it is still important to wash your hair at least once per week to prevent bacteria buildup and to dry your scalp.

4. INVEST IN A NIGHT ROUTINE

Fowler explains that tossing and turning your heads while you sleep can cause hair stress and breakage. You will need to make some changes to your nightly routine if you want to get on the no-frizz train. Silk or satin is recommended for everything, from your pillowcases to a bonnet. If you find it too difficult to style your hair every night, try a hairstyle that will allow you to get a good night’s sleep.

5. MAINTAIN TRIMS

Regular trims can be a great way to promote hair growth and say goodbye to split ends. Winter weather can make your hair look dull and dry. She says that cold weather can dry your hair out, so it is important to trim your hair at least once a year.

SOME OTHER ADVICES

When you start a new routine, there will always be some trial and error. If the new shampoo fails to work or your protective style falls apart, don’t get discouraged. It’s about patience and looking at what works for you. To get the best advice on how to care for your hair, reach out to a professional who is trained in natural hair.

You can also check out celebrities like Viola Davis, Danai Guriria, Issa Rai, Lupita Nyong’o and Issa Rae for some inspiration on how to style your hair. It was a long journey, and we can only imagine how much it was for them. Keep your head up, coily gal. This is possible.