Can You Walk on a “Bridgerton”-Style without Falling?
04.07.2022“WOW, LADY! That’s a nice dress!” exclaimed an awestruck man on the West 4th Street subway platform in New York. This was not a vulgar catcall – I was covered in more fabric that the Virgin Mary. It was a lovely dress, a violet Marc Jacobs gown with an impressive fabric train in the front and back. It was one of five garments that I tested to determine if the season’s most confusing trend, the “everyday” dress, is a viable option for everyday wear.
There are many trains from Rick Owens and Louis Vuitton in the spring collections. There are many high-quality options that can be used for Hollywood events such as last Sunday’s Oscars. Fabrics were smuggled behind celebrities like Zendaya and Cynthia Erivo. Designers are now promoting trains as casual wear, with T-shirts and slides paired with stilettos and diamonds.
Jill Lincoln, a Los Angeles stylist said that “we’ve gone straight to sweats to eveningwear for day.” She said that after two years of athleisure, “everyone is ready to go out with their best,” The popularity of shows such as “Bridgerton” or “The Gilded Age”, both set in 1800s when trains reigned, is also fueling the “drag material around like Linus Vand Pelt’s blanket” trend.
George Fountas, vice president of Bergdorf Goodman and general merchandise manager, said that the silhouette is appealing and that Prada’s satin-enhanced train skirts and dresses are among the most popular options on Instagram. He said that all of the colors we have in stock are now available in different sizes. Lyst reports that searches for “skirts featuring trains” increased by three times in the 48 hours following the September Prada show. Mr. Fountas said that the brand’s spring skirts are so appealing because of their casual runway styling. They were worn with knit sweaters so that you don’t have give up all the comfort you love. You can add some fun and glamour to life.
Can one have so much fun on public transport, at the ATM, or in a laundry area? I set out to find out.
Apart from my sister’s wedding where two attentive groomsmen led me down the aisle, I had never worn a dress with a train. So I started small, a jersey Norma Kamali skirt whose hem barely touched the ground. It was rainy on Thursday so I wore it to my favourite taco place with platform boots. The height protected my train against any mutant pathogens that live on New York’s sidewalks.
Every step, the train was twisting around my ankles like an evil Octopus. After a few stumbles I remembered the advice Alexander Jenkins, aka J. Alexander aka Miss J who was the catwalk coach for “America’s Next Top Model”, which said that you must bring the train to life. The train would not behave if you did that. The skirt was unremarkable to my dinner companion until we got up and left. He exclaimed, “Look at it!” and marveled at the swishy appendage.
The next day I felt more confident and tried two Prada styles while working remotely: a chocolate mini with a short floor-length train, and a citrus mini with a removable fan of fabric. This one (pictured in navy), was very easy to use. It was difficult to navigate the rogue satin strip in the brown skirt while standing, sitting, or moving around the kitchen. It scared my rabbit.
The stylist Ms. Lincoln stressed that a train is an investment. “If you feel the urge to give it a try, do so. This is a deliberate aesthetic.” She also suggested that a contrarian accessory, such as a sneaker can modernize the look. When I was on my way to the ATM, I road-tested my next train, a pink statement Carolina Herrera. I paired it with Converse and a leather jacket. Later, while stylishly encumbered inside my building’s laundry area, I was concerned that my train might slip on some Tide. My explanation (“It’s to work”) was met with suspicion by my neighbor. My skirts were in one hand, my towels in another, and I struggled to get back up. The scene was both silly and chic, as my dazzled frontman can attest.
Judith Watt, a dress historian and author, told me that trains were used in the West for ceremonies and telegraphing “conspicuous consumption” starting in the 1400s.