5 Best Coat Types For Men10.12.2021
Five coats may seem like a lot. However, readers will likely already own that many of them if they include smart and casual coats for warmth or rain.
Given the many questions we have received about purchasing a coat for winter, it is clear that readers want to know what to add, replace, or upgrade in order to have a small, but high-quality, collection.
Here are five categories that we would suggest. Each category has one or two specific recommendations. We don’t include anything that is too short, whether it be suede blouson leather or horsehide. And we won’t include anything that extends into the warmer months. These are not jackets but coats.
#1 Double-breasted overcoat
Navy wool and cashmere are formal options for evenings or office. For something simple and more casual, you could choose from brown or grey wool/tweed. This could also be suited for smart attire.
Our favorite piece of menswear is the double-breasted coat. It is so striking and yet classic. so functional, yet indulgent. It doesn’t look too formal or out of place. Yet, it’s a joy to order and wear.
One argument is that a bespoke coat is more important than a custom jacket. This is a valid argument. An overcoat is still a good choice. It can be worn more often than other items.
If you don’t wear a suit to work, navy is probably the best colour. If you don’t have a suit, consider lighter colours such as dark brown wools or tweeds.
#2 A raglan coat
Grey or brown tweeds, donegal or herringbone. As a lighter, mid-season coat, you can use a tan twill or covert.
(Peacoat or Bridge Coat). These are listed in the order they appear most important to readers, rather than formality.
Some people will not like the sloping shoulders of a raglan or the lack of form in the body. It is in many ways the opposite of a tailored coat.
If you don’t have the right attire, a raglan is a great way to bridge formal and casual. It can be worn for work in a darker, more classic color. It’s more versatile than an overcoat and can be worn with jeans or chinos.
The Permanent Style Donegal coat in grey herringbone this season and something similar to my Saman Amel coat are two good examples. Although the style is different, the latter has a raglan at its back. It is easier to belt something lighter than that.
This category also includes the traditional Loden coat, even though it isn’t one I love as much as balmacaans or tweed raglans.
Although a pea coat is not a raglan, I included it in this section because it can be used to bridge casual and formal. A pea coat that is long enough to be worn over a suit jacket like the Bridge Coat.
#3 A raincoat with removable liner
Long and belted navy, olive, or beige cotton. Waxed cotton is shorter and easier to move, but not as easy for the legs.
We keep harping on about the fact we don’t usually need rainproof coats. Even if you get soaked, wool is fine. It is just a matter of looking after it.
However, raincoats are a must for those times when the sun is really shining down. An umbrella is also not an option. Ventile should have wax, or some type of treated cotton. A crinkly synthetic is better.
Even though it is more costly, a removable lining can be crucial. This coat can be worn into winter and not just for spring or fall showers.
Waxed cotton is an excellent choice for those who are more active with their hair, such as when they walk the countryside or take care of a dog.
#4 Casual coat
A duffle coat in navy, tan or the other option. Parkas in any color. A shearling, olive, or brown.
This section covers everything you can wear with jeans and other casual trousers. The duffle coat is considered the most sophisticated of all and can be paired with tailored clothing. The contrast between the jacket and thick, frumpy duffle is what really makes this coat appealing.
For those who live in North America or Scandinavia, a down parka is essential. Although we haven’t found one that works well with tailoring, we do love Nigel Cabourn Everest Parka in navy. It can be worn with casual clothing in snow both in North America and Scandinavia.
You can also find military parkas in vintage, which we think look great as a high/low combination that is not too different from a duffle jacket.
Although shearling coats are often shorter than other types, they can be worn for warmth and look eleganter. However, we wouldn’t wear one over a jacket.
#5 A topcoat, polo or another from the top
A single-breasted covert or top coat. A camelhair polo coat.
It is more likely that our lifestyle will determine the decision when we reach number 5. For those who dress smartly for work, a top coat is a great option. It can be a navy wool/cashmere, or a velvet-collared, covert coat. You will wear it until it gets cold, when a longer double-breasted is necessary.
Polo coats have not been mentioned yet. As mentioned in the article, the best thing about a camel-polo polo is its ability to look great with jeans, despite being more formal in style and cut. Although it might not be appropriate for many men, it is a great option for those who love DB overcoats but don’t want to dress up.
You can also double your purchase of something from the above list. You can have both a cotton and waxed raincoat, if you prefer that versatility. If you prefer a duffle or parka, it’s a good idea. Personaly, we would get two DB-overcoats – like Ciardi British Warm’ and the Liverano tweed.
A set of four to five coats should be sufficient for you to cover all eventualities. You can upgrade your coat by saving money and finding a home for it.