The Modern Fit for Men’s Clothing: Slim, Classic or Tapered?

Let’s get to the point: fit is key. It is crucial to find the perfect fit for your clothes. A well-fitted suit, dress shirt, or pair of trousers will make you feel confident, smart, and comfortable. This is our number one tip as a men’s stylist.

The difference between a polished and sloppy appearance is how well fitted you are. This article is a collaboration between a personal stylist for men and a fashion stylist. We also discuss the various types of fit and offer our advice to help you choose what works best for your needs.

• The basics of fit

Let’s begin by defining how a jacket and shirt should fit you, regardless of your height or build. The shirt should fit snugly across the chest but not too tight that the fabric pulls at the buttons. If the shirt is too narrow across your chest and back, it is not suitable for you. Remember, however, that a shirt that is too blousy or billowy can be just as unflattering than one with a tight skin.

When the shirt is buttoned, you should be able comfortably to fit at least one finger between your neckline and the collar. The shirt’s cuffs should reach the crook, between your thumb and wrist.

A good jacket should start at the shoulders. It should be flattering to your body and fit your posture. Jackets should not extend beyond the shoulder (think Jerry Seinfeld in 1990s). The suit jacket should hug your body, but not restrict it. When buttoned, the jacket should slide smoothly across your back. The lapels should be flattened across your chest. It should not extend below your bum (or your fingers in a fist).

Your jacket sleeves should be approximately 1cm shorter than your shirt sleeves. Your jacket sleeves should be approximately 1cm shorter than your shirt sleeves. Boxy, oversized jackets and shirts look dated and don’t give definition to the upper body. No matter what your build is, the same rules apply to fitting.

• Slim Fit

The most important difference between the types of fit is how much fabric is used. The slim fit is close to the body and comfortable. This is the best choice for men with slim bodies and narrow shoulders. Many brands consider the slim fit to be the most restrictive and has no room for customizing.

• Tapered Fit

The most popular fit in menswear is the tapered, which is also what will be most common in 2022. It is the most modern look for any age. This fit is best for pants. It tapers from the thigh down to the cuff. We want the pants to be able to sit on the shoes and not over them. A tapered-fit pant or jean that is too long will cause it to bunch at the ankle, making your legs look shorter.

Tapered shirts do exactly the same thing. Tapered shirts have a relaxed fit at the shoulders and taper to the waist. Taper fits are great for athletes because they naturally follow the contours of the body (think wide shoulders/narrow hips).

• Classic Fit

The classic (sometimes called tailored) fit is slightly longer than a slimmer or tapered one. It doesn’t adhere as tightly to the body as a narrower or tapered fit. This cut is best for men with larger midsections who need more fabric to skim their stomach and back than cling. This cut is also better for men with straight legs and thighs, as classic trousers or jean cuts will naturally be straighter through the legs.

The advantage to a tailored fit is the ability to allow for additional tailoring. You can then take it to your tailor to have it made to your exact measurements. To ensure the perfect fit, the best thing a man can do is to find a good tailor. You shouldn’t expect everything you buy to fit right off the rack. You can adjust the fit of clothing by making small adjustments like trimming the sleeves or hemming the pant.

It doesn’t matter what your body type is, your clothing should follow your contours. Don’t overload it with too many fabrics (think too large) or too little cling and stretch.